One of the most affordable and convenient methods for small-scale asphalt mending projects is to use a cold patch mix. Many property owners will tell you that this approach saves money, Parking Lot Paving in Parkmore and can reduce the amount of labor required for the job, making it a great solution for small holes in parking lots, walkways, streets, and driveways. However, the process of cold asphalt patching can be accelerated with the right application techniques, saving property owners some time too! Customers, clients, guests, and occupants can use the pavement in the same day!
Continue reading to learn some great tips on how you can shorten the amount of time it takes for the cold patch asphalt mix to harden, and drastically cut down on turnaround time, from project start to finish.
Ease of Use
The primary reason why this product is the go-to choice for small hole repairs in asphalt pavements is the ease of installation. There is no long, extended process of preparing or mixing materials. Instead, the air does most of the work. You simply pour the mix directly into the hole, compact it with simple manual tools (metal tamper or piece of lumber), and leave it to air dry. The mix turns into a permanent surface patch after extended contact with air.
The drying process, also known as curing, is very important to establishing a solid, stable surface that lasts a long time. If you want a permanent repair for your asphalt, you need to make sure the entire process is done correctly. If you want to speed up the curing stage of your pavement repair project, you can try a few recommended tips.
You can use gravel to create a more dense space within the hole, which may help to establish lasting strength. Just fill the hole with gravel, little by little, while using your compacting tools to compress the gravel with each layer. Do not fill the hole all the way to the top; be sure to leave 2 inches of space below the surface line for your cold patch mix.
Pouring Your Mix
As you pour your mix, exceed the surface line by half an inch. This means that your mix should go over the top of the hole by a ½ inch. Then use your compacting tools to compress your material down until it is properly flattened. You may need to repeat this step two or three times to get a proper fill.
Asphalt cold patch mix cures by having contact with air. You can speed up the drying process by using hair dryers or commercial paint dryers. If you are going to use a hair dryer, you will need to manually operate it in a steady, sweeping motion to ensure even curing. The material is near dry when you cannot easily press into the surface with your hand.
Large-Scale Pavement Repair
For large-scale pavement repair jobs, you need a professional paving company. They have the training, equipment, and resources to provide dependable work in a convenient time frame. Be sure to choose a company that is licensed, bonded, and insured, and retains decades of experience in the road construction industry.
Parking Lot Paving in Parkmore ?
Homeowners often try to decide if they should replace their driveway with asphalt or concrete. It is not always an easy decision; especially when you consider the cost that is involved in such a large renovation project. This article specifically addresses the pros and cons of installing an asphalt driveway versus a concrete driveway.
- Appearance; concrete just looks better. It is the standard for even the most expensive homes.
- No annual maintenance; Once initially sealed, concrete doesn't require any annual maintenance
- Lasts much longer; Concrete should last 20 years or more if installed correctly.
- Concrete can be stained/stamped to look like brick, slate, or stone for a rich look
- Concrete is versatile in how it is placed and designed. Curves, color, finish, and textures add versatility to the appearance of concrete.
- Concrete adds value to your home. People just associate concrete with being the best money can buy.
- It's concrete! I'm a mason and I'm biased!
- Concrete is more expensive: The initial cost of installing a concrete driveway is slightly more than the cost of installing an asphalt driveway. Initially that is.
- Prone to cracking: This is a big one. Concrete cracks. It's what concrete does. It is rigid and when pressure from the ground below exerts its powerful forces against the concrete, the concrete cracks. However, how bad it cracks and where is often up to the mason that installed it. With proper base preparation and proper expansion cutting, cracks should be hidden and kept to a minimum.
- Concrete is susceptible to road de-icer which could ruin surface finishes. It is true that in the northern climates where roads are treated with salt or other road de-icer, the finish on your concrete can be damaged by road de-icer IF it is not properly sealed with a premium penetrating sealer.
- Cheaper initial cost. If you need paving material on your driveway and you don't have the money for concrete, asphalt can be an excellent alternative. It is certainly better than dirt, mud or stone.
- Asphalt must be re-sealed once a year. You either have to pay someone or you have to do it yourself; either way, this is the worst part of owning an asphalt driveway. If you skip sealing your driveway, it will degrade much more quickly and cost you even more.
- Asphalt wears out faster. No matter if you seal it or not, asphalt just crumbles, cracks, and sinks with vehicle weight. It is not as durable as concrete.
- Asphalt soaks up oil and gas. Asphalt is susceptible to oil and gas spills/leaks from your car. Every place you park your car, there will be stains.
- Asphalt is Dirty; with a capital "D". Asphalt is just plain dirty. Walk around on your asphalt driveway and then look at the bottom of your shoes. Yuck. The binder used to keep asphalt together is made with tar. When you seal the cracks in asphalt, you use tar. Tar sticks to everything; including you. Then you track that into your house.
- Asphalt costs more: Wait. Didn't I say it was cheaper? Yes, but only initially. In the long run, asphalt is going to cost you more because of having to replace it when it wears out. Not to mention it cost money to seal it every year. It is just not made to last as long as concrete. This con just crossed out the only "pro" for asphalt.
There are many factors to consider as you think about which type of driveway to install. It is easy to see, concrete is initially more expensive, but will outperform and therefore outlast asphalt every time; making concrete the cost effective solution. Maintenance free concrete will not only add immediate beauty and value to your home, it will be a permanent driveway solution that adds beauty and value to your home for decades to come.
Asphalt - To Seal or Not to Seal, That Is the Question
Although most people do not have the tools or equipment to actually install an asphalt driveway there are many things you can do to prepare the drive for paving work. The driveway without exception must have a solid base underneath to pave upon. Soft or wet spots are the most common reason for failure of the pavement itself. Cracking or alligatoring means the ground is unable to carry the weight of the vehicles driven over it. Severe wet spots will cause the pavement to fail totally and breakup into large chunks and cause the entire driveway to fail.
There are available today ground stabilization fabric materials that can be laid under stone sub base materials in wet areas to help solidify the sub base itself. The material is fairly expensive but may allow installation of a driveway where it would not be possible other wise. If placed directly on the earth below the sub base and over the wet area, once the sub base material is properly compacted the ground will support a great deal more weight without and shifting or movement. Many masonry supply stores carry these materials. It will take two people to roll out and handle the fabric as it generally comes in twelve foot wide rolls. A local excavating contractor may have some smaller rolls to sell. Give them a try as well.
Our first job is assure there are no wet spots either by installing some under drains, ditching along the edges to carry away surface water or actually replacing some of the wet earth with stone or other suitable materials. Sub base materials could be small and large stones, DOT item 4 materials, crushed gravel or bank run sand and gravel perhaps. The material needs to drain well and can be compacted with mechanical compactors. Drainage piping could be twelve inch corrugated piping which when installed will help water quickly pass under a drive or smaller four inch perforated piping run under the driveway areas encased in stone to provide constant pathways for water drainage without soaking the soils themselves. Water will always take the path of least resistance so any drainage piping installed will help the ground to dry much more quickly than nature would allow by itself.
Once you have solved any current or potential water problems you can move on to the actual asphalt sub base itself. Most homeowner driveways have a four inch base of gravel shale or item 4 installed when the home was built. Over the passing years, car tires break the shale down into very small pieces which will not provide a great sub base material. Adding new shale or stone can become a yearly maintenance project to maintain a smooth driving surface. As the stone or shale is pressed into the earth you are creating a thicker and thicker sub base. Depending upon whether you want your new drive to finish up higher or perhaps level than the adjoining lawns or gardens is how much sub base you want to have in the end. A typical residential driveway is ten feet wide with an actual driving surface area of about eight feet wide. For paving, you will need a solid ten foot surface to get a nine foot drive. Ten foot drive, eleven foot surface and so on. You need to have at least six inches of sub base beyond the actual finished paved width on both sides. The extra flat area is used to backup the asphalt and prevent the edges from crumbling. Remember also that asphalt and sub base may be as much as six inches thick and will require extra topsoil to backup the edge of the sub base and asphalt.
By adding sub base material and keeping the surface as level as possible, you will already have the sub base built for the paving man. In many areas of the US a material called blue stone screenings is available. This material is actually finely crushed granite and comes in three colors. Blue which will turn a darker blue when wet as time passes. Red that will also turn a lighter blue over time and yellow which stays yellow tinted forever. Once graded, this material becomes as hard as concrete on a driveway. I have seen blue stone screening surfaces snow plowed winter after winter without any plowing damage. A new dusting every few years maintains the crisp color and in-fills any depressions that may have developed. This makes a super sub-base for finished asphalt.
Well ahead of the time to have the driveway paved you should also install several conduits under the driveway for future landscape lighting. Depending upon the length of the drive, a crossing conduit every fifty feet or so should suffice. If an area is very rocky or wet, add additional conduits now before paving. Adding them later will require cutting and patching the asphalt and will not only destroy the driveways appearance but will provide a potential area for surface water infiltration. Conduit is cheap and if you never use it, it is better safe than sorry. Plastic (PVC) conduit is better than metal as it will last underground forever. Put caps on both ends to avoid any nasty surprises later on when you uncover them. Clearly mark the ends with stakes but also draw a little map and take measurements to each end from permanent objects in the yard. Once the grass grows back you will have no idea where the conduit ends are located. If you do this far ahead of the actual paving, your car traffic will compact the sub-base and will prevent any future sinking under the asphalt and thereby causing the asphalt to crack. You do not want to have to cross the new asphalt with anything later on..
Call several paving contractors for prices. The nicest guy may not do the nicest job. Make sure you tell each one exactly the same things you want. If you change the description of the work, you will not get comparable prices. Write down what you want done and then give them a copy. Ask for a written quote to make sure they included everything on your lists. Will they pickup all spillage? Are they insured against yard damages to flowers or trees or your house? How long is driveway guaranteed? How thick with the rolled asphalt be when done? Loose rolled asphalt 3 inches thick will be only 1 1/2 to 2 inches thick when rolled. Ask questions before they do the work. Get a written signed contract and a copy of their insurance policy. Be very careful with down payments. If they insist on one, make sure it is not a major portion of the contract value. Many times a down payment is paid and the contractor never shows again. Do not be suckered in by sob stories. Reputable contractors have open accounts at asphalt plants and do not need your money to buy the asphalt. If you sense something is awry move on to someone else. Ask neighbors about his work or stop at someone's house who he has just paved their driveway. Most people are proud of their new yard and will glad to talk to you. Call the Better Business Bureau and check on the contractor as well. It may sound like you are a bit over cautious but after all it is your hard earned money.
Once you have selected a contractor ask him/her if there is anything else you can do to save a few bucks on the price. Maybe removing a pre-installed asphalt driveway apron or removing adjacent features such as signs or statues or whatever else that he figured on doing for you. If you save fifty bucks on the price, that is fifty dollars towards your next project.
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